Apparatus for the manufacture of shoes



May 4, 1943. G. s. MARX 2,318,509

PPARATUS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Filed Aug. 30, 1941 3 Sheets-Sheet l May 4, 1943. G. s. MARX 2,318,509

APPARATUS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF SHOES ATTORNEYS G. S. MARX May 4, 1941 4 APPARATUS FIOR TE MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Filed Aug. 50, 1941 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 ZZIIIZ Il ATTORNEYS Patented May 4, 1943 APPARATUS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Guilherme Siegfried Marx,- Hoboken, N. J. Application August 30, 1941, Serial No. 463,94

7 Claims.

This invention relates to the manufacture of shoes, and more particularly to novel and improved apparatus for the manufacture of shoes, slippers, boots and moccasins and parts or sections thereof, including the lower continuous sections of moccasins or moccasn type shoes and boots, and including also a seamless typeupper or toe portion having an improved bent in and outwardly extending Welt section connected to the upper.

The apparatus of my invention may be used in making shoes and shoe parts from leather, and is with particular advantage employed in producing such articles from wet and pliable leather. The apparatus provides a means for molding wet and pliable leather over a last, and readily releasable means holding the leather in its molded position against the last until it is completely dry. The said' releasable means is so constituted as to permit the removal of the last and molded leather from the remainder of the apparatus during the drying of the leather.

The leather may, with particular advantage, be brought to a wet and pliable state and then transformed into the referred to articles in accordance with the method for producing leather articles described and claimed Ain my copending application, Serial No. 360,631, filed October 10, 1940, now Patent No. 2,294,474, issued September l, 1942. In the method there described, the leather is molded into the desired shape following a chrome tanning treatment and before the leather is permitted to dry following such treatment, and is thereafter held in its shaped position during drying. By this method the article acquires what may be termed a permanent set and has a greatly increased resistance to permanent deformation particularly when compared to articles made from sheets of leather which have been permitted to dry following chrome-tanning treatment and prior to being shaped or molded.

The apparatus of my invention comprises essentially a supporting table shaped in accordance with the shoe part to be produced, said table having an aperture corresponding in shape to but slightly larger than the transverse section of the shoe part to be produced, holding means disposed circumferentially of the aperture for slidably holding a sheet of leather` on the surface of the table, a form or last adapted to be pressed through the said aperture, a flexible wire member positioned belowV the table and circumferentially around the form or last and near the top thereof (after the form has been pressed through the said aperture), and adjustable means for, tightening thel wire about the leather on the form or last and for mantainig the wire in a tightened condition, main# taining the shaped leather against the`r lastor depressed in a recess vin the last. While the form or last may be a single piece, it is preferable to have it comprise at least two interlocking sections, such for example as those" described below. The apparatus may further include ap'- propriately shaped plate .members which' are positioned in thev same plane as" the said wire member and which serve to augment the action of the wire in the production of' certain ty'pes of shoes or shoe parts, thereferred to adjustable means being operative' to cause the plate mem-r bers to bear on certain parts` of the form orlast concurrently with the Wire. In another embodi-V ment the apparatus functions to f orce the leather into a recess positioned circumferentially ofthe last, as; wilgl be more fully explained here'- inafter.

One of the princip-al'lforms of shoe product which may be produced by my apparatus is a single piecel lower section of a moccasin o rsmosccasinl type shoe; In the apparatusias adapted for such a purpose the last isV pressed against f thel wet leather on the table' and through the aperture inY the table andthe wire and holding platesl applied n'ear the top of the lastl toA hold, the leather in its shaped form duringv drying, which may be effected with thel last in the table or removed# therefrom'. Y

In a furthery principal embodiment of the inventiori',` apparatus is provided for shaping a seamless sho upper orY the forward or toe portiony thereof around a last in which, adiiacent thev sole portion,there is a" narrowV circuiriferenl-r tial recess or slot. The wiref or' the Wire and plate members when appliedA tof thel leather on such a last force the leather into the laterally extending recess. There `is thus produced inthe lippen-or portion thereof, an inwardly bent portionjwhich@ is then' bent sharply outwardly forming`- a* particularlyv advantageous' type of welt' which'is ah integral' partof the upper. The apparatus o f' my invention, together withV a shoe upper of the above' mentioned type,` will HOW b dS'CrilbedAv Withl rfrend t the'Cii'tv-r ings which, are presented as illilt'rative of particularly adyahtageousH embodiments' o`f my invention, andiin which l isa plan view of `an apparatus for use in the manufacture ofY either moccasins or shoe ,Parisi i i l Fig. 2 isaL vertical section ltaken alongthe line adjustable means for holding and tightening the l wire;

Fig. 6 is a vertical section taken along 6--6 of Fig. 1, showing the cross section of an apparatus in accordance with` another modifica-1 the une' i ture 2i! and provides means for regulating the tension of the auxiliary plate members 2I and 22 positioned below the surface of the table and which, as shown n Figs. 1 and 2, exert a lateral supporting pressure against the cut-in side portions of the last which would not be effected by a mere tightening of the wire about the last. The plate 22 is rigidly connected to an arm 23 resting on support 24, said arm being shaped to avoid contact with the shoe last but arranged to pass through aperture 20. As will be seen from Fig. 2, plate 22 is provided with a grooved or notched edge which bears against the wire I2 and holds the same against one side of the last.

tion adapted to produce shoe uppers or toe sections thereof having a weltsection connected'to the upper;

Fig. 7 is a perspective View of a forward section ofa shoe upper of the type produced by the apparatus illustrated in Fig. v( il;

Fig. 8 is a vertical cross-section of such a 'shoe upper taken perpendicular to the axis of :the upper; i

y Fig. 9 is a vertical cross-section of such a shoe upper after being attachedV to an'inner and outer sole; Fig. 10 is a perspective sectional view of the toe portion of an upper, of the type illustrated in Fig. '7, when attached to inner and outer soles .showing the manner of attachment by stitching.

As illustrative'of the apparatus of my invention, there is shown in Figs. 1-5 an appropriate mechanism for the pressing of wet leather to form a moccasin bottom section. The apparatus in accordance withths embodiment comprises the following elements. A table 6 having an aperture corresponding vin shape to but slightly larger than the transverse section of the shoe last which, as illustrated, is made up of Atwo interconnecting sections 'Ia and -Ib which may be rigidly connected by locking means I0. The last is provided with a supporting member 8 and is pressed against a sheet of leather 9 situated on the table until the top of the last is level with or slightly belowthe surface of the table.

.The leather is slidably held-on the table adjacent the circumference of the aperture by the ring I I which may be varied in weight in 4accordance with the type of leather being treated to give the necessary resistance to slippage. The leather after being shaped about the last is tight- The opposite plate 2| is situated betweenthe two pulleys and bears directly against the side of the last. The arm member 23 passes through the ly held against the upper portion thereof by Y means of a wire VI2. The pressure exertedV by this wire may be varied by means of the adjustable mechanism ,I2 situated approximately opposite the mid-portion of the last. The ends of the wire I2 are, as shown in Figs. 3 and 4, f'

secured between a block I4 and strip I5 and may readily be removed therefrom by loosening the block. In order to supply an even pressure over as'great a portion `of the circumference of the last as possible, the wire, before passing'under the block I4, is passed around pulleys I6 mount# edfbetween plate members I1 and I8 on a line substantially parallel with the axis of the last, and in such Va way that'their inside edges are in substantial alignment with the outermost edges of the last. A suitable recessed opening I9 in the upper plate I8 is` provided in which the bloclr` I4 reciprocates, the strip I5 reciprocating between the plates II and I8. A downwardly projecting extension 32 of the bottom plate I'I is provided with a suitably shaped aperaperture 20 and is pivotally connected to an eccentric 25 by the manipulation of which a lateral clamping action is secured on the plates 2I and 22. rIhe strip I5 bearing notches 26 provides a means whereby the wire may be tightened and held in a tightened position by means of a ratchet stop 2'I held in place by spring 28.

The aperture 29 in strip I5 affords a means t0 receive a suitable tool for applying a tightening leverage to the wire. After the adjustable means I3 has been operated to tighten the wire and the plates 2I and 22 so that the leather is held firmly against the last, the leather is cut peripherally and exteriorly of the aperture in the table yby a suitable cutting means which may be a single blade shaped slightly larger than the aperture, or preferably is, as illustrated, a small knife blade 30, activated by driving means 3| which as here shown rolls on the upper surface of ring II. Following the cutting operation the shaped shoe while still held on the last by the clamping means and the wire is preferably re# moved from the table until the leather is dry and has assumed its permanent shape, thus freeing the table and cutting Ameans for further use. The just described apparatus as illustrated in Figs. 1 to 5 is particularly effective for producing moccasin bottoms. Y

In the second above referred to principal embodiment of my invention, involving a seamless shoe upper having a welt portion as an integral part thereof, an apparatus such as is illustrated in Fig. 1 and Fig. 5, may be employed. In the case where a complete seamless upper is to be produced, a shoe last Yhaving a sole portion, as illustrated in Fig. 1, is employed. The same form of adjustable means shown in Fig. 1 for tightening thewire member and for adjusting the cooperating plates, may also be employed. The essential difference in this instance from the moccasin ,apparatus shown in section in Fig. 2, resides in the shape of the last and in the factthat an upper portion of the last made to conform generally to thecrosssectional configuration of the sole portion of the last, is cut away in such a way that when upon itself. Fig. 8 illustratesV in section the toe portion of such an upper.

It may sometimes be desirable to prepare only the forward portion of a seamless upper having an outwardly continuously extending welt portion. Fig. 7 illustrates such a portion which is used` with advantage in many types of sport and work shoes, particularly those requiring heavy leather.

An apparatus for producing the forward or toe portion of such an upper will in general correspond to that illustrated in Figs. 1 andl 6, except that the cooperating plates 2l and 22 will be omitted, the adjustable means for-tightening the wire l2 being sufficient to force the wire into the recessV 33 throughout the toe portion.

One of the chief advantages of the type of seamless upper or toe part thereof made by my apparatus resides in the manner in which a waterproof shoe may be prepared therefrom. In Figs. 9 and l0 is shown the manner in which such a shoe may be assembled when the portion of the upper involved possesses a welt portion 40 of the referred to type. An inner sole 34 having its outer edges tapered as at 35, is placed within the upper 36. Due to the manner in which the upper is bent outwardly to form the welt portion, the upper may be sewn to the inner sole as shown at 31. The outer sole 38 may then be attached by known methods of sewing adjacent the outer edge of the welt portion, as at 39. It will be seen that such an arrangement permits of a sturdily constructed shoe without having any nail or thread holes which pass from the exterior to the interior of the shoe.

It will be apparent that details of the various elements of the above specically described apparatus may be varied without departing from the disclosure of the herein claimed invention.

I claim:

1. An apparatus for the manufacture of shaped shoe parts comprising a supporting table having an aperture corresponding in shape to but slightly larger than the transverse section of the shoe part to be produced, holding means disposed -peripherally of the aperture for slidably holding a sheet of leather on the surface of the table, a last adapted to be passed through the said aperture and having a contour corresponding to the contour of the shoe part to be produced and adapted to shape a portion of the leather to conform to the shape of the last by pressing it through the aperture, a wire member positioned below the surface of the table and adapted to be tightened around the shaped leather on the last and adjacent the top thereof, and an adjustable tightening means for tightening the wire member about the last.

2. An apparatus for the manufacture of shaped shoe parts comprising a supporting table having an aperture corresponding in shape to but slightly larger than the transverse section of the shoe part to be produced, holding means disposed peripherally of the aperture for slidably holding a sheet of leather on the surface of the table, a last adapted to be passed through the said aperture and having a contour corresponding to the contour of the shoe part to be produced and adapted to shape a portion of the leather to conform to the shape of the last by pressing it through the aperture, a wire member positioned below the surface of the table and adapted to be tightened around the shaped leather on the last and adjacent the top thereof,` 'an adjustable tightening means for tightening the wire member -about the. last, and cutting means for cutting the leather substantially peripherally of the aperture in the table.

3. An apparatus for the manufacture of shaped shoe parts comprising a supporting table having an aperture corresponding in shape to but slightly larger than the transverse section of the shoe part to be produced, holding means disposed peripherally of the aperture for slidably holding a sheet of leather on the surface of the table, a last adapted to be passed through the said aperture and having a contour corresponding to the contour of the shoe part to be produced and adapted to shape a, portion of the leather to conform to the shape of the last by pressing it through the aperture, a Wire member positioned below the surface of the table and adapted to be tightened around the shaped leather on the last and adjacent the top thereof, horizontal plate members positioned on opposite sides of the last'having convex inner edges which conform to the concave surface of the shoe last substantially in the plane of the said Wire member, an. adjustable tightening means for tightening the wire member about the last and for simultaneously pressing the said plate members against the opposing central sections of the last, and cutting means for cutting the leather substantially peripherally of the aperture in the table.

4. An apparatus for the manufacture of shaped shoe parts comprising a supporting table having an aperture corresponding in shape to but slightly larger than the transverse section of the shoe part to be produced, holding means disposed peripherally of the aperture for slidably holding a sheet of leather on the surface of the table, a last adapted to be passed through the said aperture and having a contour corresponding to the contour of the shoe part to be produced and adapted to shape a portion of the leather to conform to the shape of the last by pressing it through the aperture, said last comprising an upper and lower portion releasably interconnected, a wire member positioned below the surface of the table and adapted to be tightened around the shaped leather on the last and adjacent the top thereof, an adjustable tightening means for tightening the wire member about the last, and cutting means for Cutting the leather substantially peripherally of the aperture in the table.

5. An apparatus for the manufacture of shaped shoe parts comprising a supporting table having an aperture corresponding in shape to but slightly larger than the transverse section of the shoe part to be produced, holding means disposed peripherally of the aperture for slidably holding a sheet of leather on the surface of the table, a last adapted to be passed through the said aperture and having a contour corresponding to the contour of the shoe part to be produced and adapted to shape a, portion of the leather to conform to the shape of the last by pressing it through the aperture, a wire member positioned below the surface of the table and adapted to betightened around the shaped leather on the last and adjacent the top thereof, horizontal plate members positioned on opposite sides of the last having convex inner edges which conform to the concave surface of the shoe last substantially in the plane of the said wire member, an adjustable tightening means for tightening the wire member about vthe last, and a clamping means for pressing the said plate members againstthe opposing central sections of the last. Y -6. An apparatusfor the manufacture of shaped shoe uppersY comprising a supporting table having an aperture corresponding n'shape tobut slightly larger than the transverse section of the shoe Upper to be produced, holding means disposed peripherally of the aperture for slidably holding a sheet of leather on the surface of the table, a last adapted to be pressed through the said aperture and having a contour corresponding to the contour of the shoe upper to be produced, said last having a recess extending peripherally around the last near the top thereof., a Wire member positioned below the surface of the table and adapted to be tightened around the shaped leather and to force the shaped leather into thersaid recess, an adjustable tightening means for tightening the Wire member about the last, and cutting means for cutting the leather substantially peripherally of the aperture in the table.

7. An apparatus for the manufacture of shaped shoe parts comprising a supporting table having an aperture corresponding in shape to but slightly larger than the transverse section of the shoe Apart to be produced, holding means disposed peripherally of the aperture for slidably holding a sheet of leather on the surface of the table, a vlast adapted to be passed through the said aperture and having a contour corresponding to the contour of the shoe part to be produced and adapted to shape a portion of the leather to conform to the shape of lthe last by pressing it through the apertura-a. wire member positioned below the surface of the table and adapted to be tightened around they shaped leather on the last and adjacent the top thereof, an adjustable tightening means for tightening the wire member about thelast, and cutting means Yfor cutting the leather substantially peripherally of the aperture in the table, the last with the shaped leather thereon and the Wire member tightened around the shaped leather together with said tightening means being removable from said table as a unit.

GUILHERME SIEGFRIED MARX. 

